Quinta Camarena: Yoga, wine and surfing happily collide in this unspoilt part of Portugal

I sit by the pool, the sun freshly set over the traditional white, copper-orange-topped building. A dragonfly hovers over the pool and skims the water. Mellow, lo-fi music accompanies the smells of whichever delights chef Rafa is lovingly preparing for dinner (monkfish stew) that waft on the light breeze. I sip on water, tinged purple by freshly-picked flowers and fruits with which it’s infused. It is mid-October, a pleasant 20°C at 7 pm, and I think to myself, ‘Cam and Vera have created something very special here’.

I’m in southwest Portugal attending the “Not So Serious Surf, Yoga & Wine” retreat at their sustainable boutique hotel, Quinta Camarena, located in the quaint town of Cercal in the Alentejo region – lesser-known to many Brits, like me, than the major cities.

We are a two-hour drive south of Lisbon, roughly halfway between the city and the Algarve. On the way, we pass huge stork nests built on the electricity pylons in fields on either side of the road. The driver laments how many people drive through the region without a second glance on their way to the south, but they are missing a trick.

Quinta Camarena

The decision for husband and wife duo Cam Camarena, originally from Los Angeles, and Vera Camarena, from Porto, to start the venture, was born out of their mutual love of travel and outdoor sports. Craving a slower pace of life after years in the New York rat-race, they found themselves falling in love with a run-down farmhouse in the Alentejo region. And it is easy to see why.

The farmhouse that they embraced and lovingly renovated became Quinta Camarena. On the quinta (Portuguese for “estate”) grounds, nature surrounds you. Pine trees line the hills, while cork oak trees that have had their bark stripped back provide a constant grounding of where you are. Hammocks and chairs are dotted throughout the property. Figs, lemons, oranges, pomegranates, walnuts and more grow in their orchard, among other fruits and berries less familiar to me: persimmon, nespereira and medronhoneiro. Hiking trails fork off into the hills around the region. Roosters crow in the mornings, and the nighttime is punctuated by haunting owl calls. Situated slightly inland from the protected Vicentine Coast Natural Park means pristine, white sandy beaches and beautiful surf spots are no more than a 15-minute drive away.

Ellie Abraham

Here you can experience the tranquillity of the rolling hills and countryside, and the stunning coast – and you don’t need to compromise on either.

As part of my programme, mornings at Quinta Camarena begin with a yoga session. The purpose-built studio sits in the heart of a pine forest, with glass that frames it in three directions. The slideable windows let the room breathe and allow you to truly practise yoga at one with the elements.

Having worked up an appetite, breakfast/brunch is served up in the Camtina, which itself is styled with houseplants that bring a calming feel. Food is a big part of the culture here. There is a strong focus on locally-grown, sustainable ingredients, and the dishes are just the right mix between healthy and hearty. You certainly don’t feel you’ve been short-changed. Fruit from their own orchard is served daily, and I have never tasted such sweet figs in my life. Local honey, jams, marmalades and breads are also standard each morning.

Quinta Camarena

The menu changes daily. For breakfast, we ate everything from overnight oats to confited tomatoes, and fried eggs (from their own chickens), to pancakes. Dinners each day are three courses and absolutely delicious. Dairy cows aren’t raised in the area, so much of the dairy offerings are made from goat's milk. The goat butter grew on me more every morning. I am, however, grateful that cow’s milk was made available for tea and coffee.

Ahead of one dinner, we were told the tale of João – the rooster that is the filling of our pie that evening – and how he had been throwing off the vibes in the chicken coop before it was decided his time had come. Other local and traditional Portuguese offerings included black pork prosciutto and bacalhau com grão (a salted cod and chickpea salad). Each night, we were served a different regional wine with dinner. Oftentimes, Cam and Vera had met the producer themselves. My favourite was a Palhete, which is a Portuguese style of wine I’d never tried before and is made by blending red and white grapes, producing what resembles a dark rosé, or very light red. It is served slightly chilled.

Ellie Abraham

After breakfast, we head to the coast, which is more beautiful and unspoiled than I could have pictured. As we round the dunes, the beach is vast, and the ocean teal-blue and inviting. It is here, on the sand, that we first learn and then practice the principles of “popping up” on the surfboard, with the help of our instructor, Finn. It is hot in the wetsuit, but I am grateful for it when I step in the water and my feet are the only part of my body that are cold, though even they quickly warm up in the excitement of it all. Despite a slight fear of the ocean, I needn’t have worried because we are given instruction on how to be safe and navigate the waves with our boards in tow. It is my first time surfing, and I am thrilled that I manage to stand up properly a handful of times amongst the many failures.

Quinta Camarena

The following day, we arrive in the coastal town of Porto Covo. We peruse the local market, where elders sell fresh, homegrown produce and snacks, including moreish roasted in-shell almonds and tremoços (a snack food of cured lupin seeds). Afterwards, we head towards the sea to walk a small portion of the Fisherman’s Trail hike, which trails down the southwest coast of Portugal and would take multiple days to complete in full. The route we take sees us navigate the rugged cliffs and eventually work our way down to the sand, where we discard our trainers and socks, and most of our group take a dip in the clear water.

If you still have the energy, guests are offered the opportunity to add extra activities such as stand-up paddleboarding, a horseback riding tour in the hills and cheese/jam-making workshops. There is also a gym on the grounds. If relaxation is what’s needed, you can opt for a massage, and there is an on-site sauna.

Quinta Camarena

There is a philosophy of sustainability woven into Quinta Camarena. The food menu begins from the vegetable and herb gardens and expands from there to other locally-sourced, seasonal produce. Solar energy is utilised on the site, with guests politely encouraged to be mindful of energy use. Single-use plastic bottles are not sold, so bring your reusable water bottle. The theme continues in the buildings, with the multi-level hilltop room warmly decorated with local textiles and artworks, each with a natural, organic selection of toiletries.

Quinta Camarena sleeps a total of 23, giving guests a laid-back, intimate feel regardless of capacity. A stay here exploring this stunning part of the world is a retreat like no other.

The Not So Serious New Year’s Eve retreat runs from 28 December to 3 January. 2026 retreat dates are available to book now, beginning 21 March. Find out more here.

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