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Lago di Carezza
Carezza
As someone who has never skied, the Dolomites wasn’t ever on my bucket list.
I thought that jumping off lift chairs metres in the sky and whizzing down mountainous terrain was the only way to explore the Alps.
That's until I heard about Carezza, located in South Tyrol, and how its dramatic peaks and emerald green lakes offer a different kind of adventure perfect for summer and autumn escapes.
Location
Boutique airline SkyAlps offers speedy flights of just under two and half hours from London Gatwick to Bolzano airport. The journey included complimentary champagne with snacks for all passengers and immediately set the tone for relaxation ahead.
Carezza is set beneath the jagged peaks of Rosengarten and the horseshoe-shaped mountain Latemar, with absolutely astounding views.
Unlike the snowy season, as the light gets softer and greenery starts to sprout, Northeast Italy offers an idyllic countryside break for a peaceful respite.
Arrival at Moseralm
Moseralm Dolomiti Hideaway, a 4-star, family-run wellness hotel.Moseralm Dolomiti Hideaway
When stepping off the plane you’re hit with distinct crisp air and ethereal clouds that circle above you.
The airport was just 45-minutes drive to Moseralm Dolomiti Hideaway, a 4-star, family-run wellness hotel.
Its roots date back to the mid-19th century where it began as a humble alpine refuge before modernising as it was handed down across generations.
For those seeking to balance active days out with mindful wellness, its cutting-edge spa includes a -8 degrees snow room, cold plunge pool, steam bath, several Finnish saunas, a panoramic, heated outside swimming pool and a solarium that’s scented with freshly picked hay for guests to unwind in.
Moseralm's panoramic and heated outside swimming pool.Moseralm Dolomiti Hideaway
The Aufguss session was unlike anything I’d encountered before, with Fred, the sauna master, melting ice balls infused with mint and lemongrass over sizzling stones. He then fanned us, circulating the hot, fragrant steam and intensified the aromatherapy treatment. I left feeling completely rejuvenated and noticeably lighter in mood.
There’s also a fully equipped gym, along with a range of private spa treatments, for which booking in advance is highly recommended.
The Room, Karersee Suite
While staying in the Karersee Suite, a spacious apartment finished with warm pine interiors, I had two separate large double bedrooms, a living room, both a shower and bath, alongside two balconies overlooking the Rosengarten and the surrounding meadows which were filled with grazing cows. The faint clinging of their bells could be heard from the room, making it feel as though nature was quite literally on the doorstep.
In the morning, I made sure to catch Rosengarten’s vibrant pink hues from my bedroom balcony; honestly, it was picture-perfect. As the sun crept over the rugged summits, the peaks were bathed in a dramatic salmon-coloured alpenglow. You had to be quick to catch it as within moments wisps of mist and mountain clouds rolled in, completely covering everything.
Farm-to-table Food
Breakfast was served buffet-style, with locally sourced ingredients from neighbouring farms. From creamy goat’s cheese or ‘Hubert’ the farmer’s eggs, it was a simple yet satisfying take on the farm-to-table concept.
The table was allocated and reserved for the duration of my stay every day, with a three-to-four course evening menu, where I particularly enjoyed indulging in fluffy South Tyrolean tirtlen and caramelised roast beef.
Afterwards, the bar was a natural next stop with tables suited for board games and an abundance of indoor and outdoor seating to settle in for the evening.
It was here I met a German family of around 10 to 15 people who shared that they'd been returning to Moseralm year on year. They kindly invited me and a friend to join them for drinks, and gave a glimpse into the sense of community that makes this resort feel so special.
It was this 'home away from home' warmth that really stood out. The owners Michael and Magdalena as well as other staff made a genuine effort to welcome guests into their Alpine way of life, rather than treating them as fleeting tourists. It was shown through the smallest details like our waiter Alex remembering individual dining preferences.
Lago di Carezza
Beyond the cinematic backdrops, there’s plenty to do, from e-biking through fairytale-like forests, cruising along alpine meadows to hiking up to 2,300 meters to see Christomannos Adler, a striking bronze eagle perched high among the peaks.
Even Timothée Chalamet was making the most of the scenery during his time in the mountains, snapping photos for Instagram.
An essential stop is Lago di Carezza, a 15-20 minutes walk from the hotel.
Its shimmering green-waters reflect the mountains behind it, drawing in visitors year-round, and make it an ideal spot for scenic walks, or naturally memorable photographs.
Moserlam also offers a helpful itinerary with excursions and activities. Simon, the resort’s go-to man for all things outdoors, led our group on a hike exploring Rosengarten.
We first took the Tschein ski lift, conveniently located on the hotel’s grounds, before ascending into the higher altitude.
Views from a hike exploring RosengartenAaliyah Harris
While up the mountains, I drank from free-flowing alpine waterfalls, spotted mountain goats with giant curled horns and wandered between pockets of opaque mist that suddenly cleared to reveal lush valleys framed by towering rocky peaks.
Our final stop was at Rifugio Paolina Hütte, a quaint refuge at the foot of Catinaccio overlooking the opposite side of the valley, was well worth it. Here, I ticked into the tastiest, tomato-rich pasta - a well earned reward.
Visiting Cyprianerhof
Cyprianerhof Dolomit Resort, a five-star retreat nestled beneath the Rosengarten massif.Cyprianerhof Dolomit Resort
After a mellow few days at Moseralm Dolomiti Spa Resort, it was time for a change of pace, so I headed off to Cyprianerhof Dolomit Resort, a five-star retreat nestled beneath the Rosengarten massif.
Getting there was half the fun. I travelled aboard Italy’s first-ever cabrio cable cars, which felt like a mini-rollercoaster ride. The open-air pods allow up to 60 people, gliding down the mountainside offering wide-ranging views across the surrounding terrain, before stepping off and alighting on near enough Cyprianerhof Dolomit Resort’s doorstep.
This alpine resort exuded luxury, with an effortlessly sophisticated vibe.
The Room, Premium Loft Valbon Suite
In the daytime tiny birds would hurtle past chipping away.Cyprianerhof Dolomit Resort
Ultimate comfort was evident in the Premium Loft Valbon Suite, which boasted an open-plan bedroom and bathroom that flowed seamlessly into each other.
Once again, I was stunned by the enormous balcony terrace, facing the forest and the Schlern massif. In the daytime tiny birds would hurtle past, chipping away, while by the evening, it offered a dazzling view of the star-dotted sky, filled with twinkling lights.
The amenities were equally lavish but thoughtful too, including hiking backpacks for guests and nightly turndown services.
Sustainability efforts were also clearly a consideration across both resorts, with Cyprianerhof offering plastic-free cube soaps for everything from body wash to shampoo.
Spa and Wellness
Take a dip in the gorgeous natural pond bursting with life.Aaliyah Harris
The extensive 2,400-square-meter Similde Spaare spa is reason enough to visit Cyprianerhof, and it’s easy to see why the wellness space has won awards.
They encourage guests to forget about “watching the clock” and to fully embrace the tranquillity.
Reset at the serene inside and outdoor heated pools, or take a dip in the gorgeous natural pond bursting with life. An ice bath and saltwater whirlpool face the mountains, which turned a fiery amber as the sun began to set.
Inside the spa there's a glass sauna offering 360-degree views of the Rosengarten peaks, alongside Swiss stone pine, clay saunas, hay sauna barns, steam rooms and even an ice grotto.
Of course, I had to try the Aufguss sauna ceremony which took place in an outside sauna that was smaller than Moseralm, but far more theatrical with loud music to increase the intensity. Personally, I preferred the calmer ritual at Moseralm, but there was no denying I emerged feeling completely revitalised.
I had to try the Aufguss sauna ceremony which took place in an outside sauna.Aaliyah Harris
My favourite treatment here was the coffee-based body scrub which took place in the steam baths. I was guided to dose my hair with thick honey and exfoliate my skin with a natural coffee-mixture scrub. I left with my skin feeling extremely supple and had a radiant post-spa glow.
Like Moseralm, Cyprianerhof also has soothing rooms to relax in, but it takes things further with infrared loungers and a salt inhalation parlour, suited for quiet meditation.
Refreshment stations were throughout the spa where guests had fresh spring water, teas, juices and healthy snacks, while the fitness programme included everything from pilates to forest bathing. There were also some more unusual additions, including relaxing sound baths and gua sha tutorials.
Laurin’s Lounge
Tris di canederli, traditional Tyrolean dumplings made with spinach, cheese and beetroot.Aaliyah Harris
Cyprianerhof has good access to a number of mountain biking routes with rental services readily available. Unfortunately, rentals were only offered at a fixed daily rate, which didn’t quite work for my plans to cycle for just an hour or two. I would have loved to join a guided tour, as I had done at Moseralm, although guides were available to offer advice and help with planning ahead.
If I were to return, I would definitely check out the 4.4-kilometres Carezza flow trail promising “berms, jumps and sweeping descents”, a real adrenaline fix.
Instead though, I carted up the Karerpass ski lift to eat lunch at Laurin’s Lounge on a terraced sun deck amongst the magnificent mountains.
The atmosphere was a real highlight and gave me the opportunity to try more local delicacies including Tris di canederli, traditional Tyrolean dumplings made with spinach, cheese and beetroot.
'Shredded seitan and velvety monkfish'
As a foodie, I was keen to get stuck into the different cuisines and Cyprianerhof’s dining service was honestly impeccable.
The “field and pasture” philosophy puts locally sourced ingredients front and centre, from egg supplying farmers to sourcing herbs and cheeses from the surrounding region and you could really taste the difference.
Raw honey from local alpine bees and earthy loose-leaf teas were just a few of my breakfast favourites, but I was utterly obsessed with the gourmet cheese selection alongside a collection of chutney jams.
At dinner, I savoured the pumpkin with homemade shredded seitan and velvety monkfish, but, unsurprisingly, it was the desserts that stole the show. from plum cakes to intensely chocolatey creations, there was almost too much choice.
The wine list was impressive, many from South Tyrol, but one basic drink I just couldn’t get enough of was the water. Guests could help themselves from a dedicated tap, serving Tschamin water that slowly filters through the porous Dolomite rock from the Schlern plateau before emerging at "1,540 metres above sea level", and is naturally enriched with minerals.
When dining I did wonder why bottles were charged in the restaurant at €4.50 (£3.85), (but otherwise free to use) and found out that proceeds are donated to the Tiers Mountain Rescue Service, making a simple bottle of water feel like a small contribution to the local community.
Conclusion
The Dolomites were the unexpected trip I never knew I needed to take. Now, I know it’s somewhere I absolutely have to return to, next time with the mountains blanketed in snow.
While the sun was blazing over the hills surrounding Moseralm Dolomiti Hideaway, I found myself admiring how the resort has evolved over the years without losing its traditions, history and family charm.
Later, sipping Assam tea while lounging beside Cyprianerhof Dolomit Resort’s natural pool as dragon flies dipped in and out of the water, I struggled to imagine being pampered to quite the same degree anywhere else. The two resorts offered noticeably different interpretations of Dolomite luxury.
At Moseralm Dolomiti Hideaway, the experience felt more personal and intimate, with a genuine family warmth that gave the property a wonderfully authentic character. Its quaint, rustic charm was beautifully balanced with luxurious touches.
Cyprianerhof Dolomit Resort, by contrast, had a grander, more 'resort-like' feel, with an awe-inspiring array of polished, high-end facilities designed for a more plush holiday.
Where Moseralm felt intimate and deeply connected to its surroundings, Cyprianerhof embraced a more expansive and lavish take on alpine luxury.
Different in every way, yet I wouldn’t want to do the Dolomites without both.
For those interested in visiting, Cyprianerhof’s room rates start at around €160 per night, with top-tier suites reaching €560+. At Moseralm, rates begin at roughly €240 per night and can reach up to €1,000–€2,014 for the most exclusive suites, depending on the season, package and room category. See the latest rates and availability at Cyprianerhof here and Moseralm here.
For flying with ease, SkyAlps operates from London Gatwick to Bolzano running up to four flights each week with costs from €148 each way. Children under two travel free of charge, while those aged 2–11 receive a 30% discount, read more here.
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