Lifestyle

Is Wakefield secretly one of the UK’s coolest city breaks?

Waterton Park Hotel and Spa, in Wakefield
Ben / Farmer Copley's

When it comes to a UK staycation, particularly in the north of England, cities like Manchester, Leeds and York spring to mind.

But as local getaways become more sought after, could this be the underrated city break we’ve all been sleeping on?

Location

In West-Yorkshire, away from the busy capital of York, lies the cosy city of Wakefield.

Nicknamed by locals as ‘Shakey Wakey’, due to its lively nightlife, it even had a viral moment back in 2023 when Wakey Wines shop made national headlines.

But beyond its wacky bars, the city boasts a rich artistic heritage where some of the “most influential sculptors of the 20th century” were born including Henry Moore, known for working with bronze, and Barbara Hepworth, a pioneer who worked with wood, stone and marble.

Plus, the city is surrounded by miles of lush rolling countryside, making it ideal for a secluded wellness retreat.

How to get there

Direct trains from London King’s Cross arrive at Wakefield Westgate, in the city centre, in under 2 hours.

Although it takes a little longer, around three and a half hours, I’d argue by car is a better choice as many of Wakefield’s major highlights are dotted across the countryside where public transport can prove tricky.

The Hotel

Tucked away on the outskirts sits a historic 4-star property surrounded by “ancient woodland”, abundant wildlife and its very own private lake.

At first glance, Waterton Park Hotel & Spa feels utterly idyllic. Majestic grey herons glide across its arched bridge while swans wade gracefully along the water. Giant Canada geese roam freely too, creating an enchanting and fairytale-like atmosphere.

There’s also a 200-acre golf course nearby with panoramic views over the parkland, lake and hotel.

Executive / deluxe room

The statement four-poster bed set the tone straight away encapsulating a Georgian aesthetic.Aaliyah Harris

Rooms are split across two buildings: the landmark Walton Hall - which was once home to the famous naturalist Charles Waterton - and a more modern hotel on the mainland.

I stayed in a spacious room that offered a classic country-house charm, with elegant furnishings and a quintessentially English design.

The statement four-poster bed set the tone straight away, encapsulating a Georgian aesthetic. A traditional sofa and two armchairs sat at the foot, while oil paintings hung from the walls adding more old-world character.

For a luxury stay, there was one minor detail which fell short and I was disappointed to find no toiletries provided for the enormous bathtub which felt like a missed opportunity. Nevertheless the sheer size of the room felt regal.

Amenities

Over at Walton Hall guests can relax in several outdoor hot tubs as a part of spa day and rate packages, while the indoor swimming pool, sauna and jacuzzi are complimentary to all visitors between 7am and 9am.

Breakfast was a fairly standard buffet-style service offering all the essentials for a hearty English fry up, a selection of cereals, juices, yoghurt and fresh fruit.

Yorkshire Sculpture Park

Known as the unofficial, ‘sculpture capital of the UK’, a good starting point to get to know the city is by heading to the Yorkshire Sculpture Park (YSP).

Its Formal Garden is a tranquil space that features five bronze sculptures exploring, "metamorphosis, hybrid forms, mythology and the body”.

Bronze artwork by Bharti KherAaliyah Harris

However, I found the new exhibition of contemporary Indigenous North American art most captivating. I was truly moved by Zoe Urness’ photography on missing and murdered Indigenous women and girls. Likewise, the powerful film Three Songs by Raven Chacon really resonated with me.

Further down the park, you’ll pass an array of towering sculptures, some 10 metres tall, a lake and plenty of sheep nearing a respite at the Weston restaurant.

The Art House

Another leading attraction is The Art House, close to the city centre, it offers a space for early career artists and lets audiences engage with creative processes.

28-year-old Emily Ryalls, a resident artist at the gallery, runs a programme called PhotoVoice working with young women who are struggling with their mental health.

28-year-old Emily Ryalls, a resident artist at the gallery, runs a programme called PhotoVoice working with young women who are struggling with their mental health.Emily Ryalls

“I host these spaces for women to come together and have a physical creative practice that opens your minds… making it easier to talk about things that often would feel more difficult sat over a coffee”, says Ryalls.

Through “creative play” workshops, she says women discussed "adolescence anxieties" about body image, motherhood and menopause while creating cast ceramics with their own bodies.

The Hepworth

And just around the corner, set within Wakefield’s waterfront overlooking the River Calder, is The Hepworth Museum.

Famously named after Barbara Hepworth, visitors can view major exhibitions of international modern and contemporary art.

I particularly enjoyed the exhibition exploring Mrinalini Mukherjee and women sculptors from India and Bangladesh, which celebrates the history of South Asian art that, as The Hepworth notes, “has long been underrepresented within Western accounts of global modernisms”.

Where to eat

Notable and standout establishments include The New Inn, a local village pub close to Waterton Park Hotel & Spa.

Family-orientated and friendly inside, I devoured the meatiest and creamiest steak and ale pie I’ve ever had which came with crispy hand cut chips and buttery vegetables. It was delicious.

Back in the city centre, The Spicy Biker, an Indian restaurant serving traditional Punjabi family recipes was also notable. The street-style food was mouth-watering. Mum’s Special Chicken Curry was so succulent, the Lamb Rogan Joshi melted-in-the-mouth, Daddy's Famous Bhaji was light and crispy and the chilli cheese bites came with a special chilli sauce that teased the palate.

The Lamb Rogan Joshi melted-in-the-mouth at The Spicy Biker restaurantAaliyah Harris

Nightlife & Bars

Five minutes walk away, the quirky RBT Video bar makes the perfect spot for after dinner drinks.

Guess the movie password to enter and you’ll be led through a secret door into the 80s, with dancy retro pop music and wonderfully wild cocktails.

Then for some live entertainment, again just five minutes walk away, is the Wakefield Exchange, a vibrant hub for “culture, creativity, and great food”.

On arrival I was serenaded by Frumptarn Guggenband, a carnival-style brass and percussion band from South Yorkshire who provided all the energy. Robbie Williams' Angel's to pop hits by MNEK brought crowds of families and friends to their knees dancing and clapping along.

Farmer Copleys

The farm’s Moo Cafe is a staple for breakfast where 95 percent of its ingredients come from locally sourced produce in the farm shop.Aaliyah Harris

In the Autumn months, Wakefield’s seasonal activities include one of most exciting events that runs right up until Halloween - the UK’s biggest pumpkin festival!

At Farmer Copleys, 300,000 homegrown pumpkins are displayed in a sea of fluorescent orange over the fields.

For the ideal day out here, I’d recommend starting at the farm’s Moo Cafe, a staple for breakfast where 95 percent of its ingredients come from locally sourced produce in the farm shop.

Pumpkins galore are served in every kind of dish from pies, to tarts, scones to pancakes and even Dhal and stew dumplings.

The taste is in the ‘field to fork’ dining experience and the traditional English breakfast with sausages, bacon and the full works was absolutely superb.

Reyt Sauna and Cold Plunge

Afterwards some self care therapy was metres away at Reyt’s wood fired sauna and cold plunge.

Immersed in nature, it was exactly what I needed to decompress and reset before heading to the main event. I left feeling rejuvenated.

The Pumpkin Festival

At Farmer Copleys, 300,000 homegrown pumpkins are displayed in a sea of fluorescent orange over the fields.Aaliyah Harris

Conveniently, right next door to Reyt is the pumpkin festival, where of course, there’s plenty of Insta-worthy photo opportunities, but also so much to get involved in.

From games to food, drinks, theme park rides, live music and local merchants selling all kinds of things, it had it all.

Wheelbarrows were at the ready for those wanting to pick pumpkins and I left with four beauties, including an insanely heavy 20kg monster as well as a stripy tiger print pumpkin, which I later carved into spooky Halloween designs.

Conclusion

So should Wakefield be on your radar? With world-class art, countryside spa retreats, homey pubs and kooky nightlife, it's a city break full of character without the need to rush around. Its strong sense of community shines through its local artists, independent businesses and seasonal events. As the local council puts it: “It isn’t shouting for attention – it smiles, it winks, inviting you to step closer and open the box.”

For a UK getaway that blends a little luxury with unexpected discovery, Wakefield deserves a spot on your list.

Waterton Park Hotel & Spa room rates start at around £80 per night, with deluxe rooms reaching up to £350 a night. See availability here.

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