Tenerife’s little-known Michelin-starred food scene is rewriting the island’s luxurious side

Tenerife has long been a go-to hotspot for sun-hungry travellers, but amid all-inclusive culture and the familiar smell of traditional tapas emerging from almost every kitchen, its more luxurious food scene - one worth knowing about - has long remained a hidden gem at its heart.

Despite only spanning 2,000km, Tenerife is home to seven Michelin-starred restaurants and counting, drawing a more affluent crowd who appreciate both good food and priceless backdrops in the form of the beach in one direction, and Mount Teide in the other.

La Caleta, one of the island’s most affluent neighbourhoods, situated in the southwest of the island and home to the most expensive street in the Canary Islands thanks to its mansion-like villas and golf resorts, has also welcomed several high-end eateries in recent years - including not one, not two, but three Michelin-starred haunts tucked away inside one resort.

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The five-star Royal Hideaway, strikingly visible from its cruise ship-inspired architecture, boasts two key locations on-site - Corales Suites, an upmarket destination for families seeking a touch of luxury, and on the other side, Corales Beach, an adults-only haven that blends avant-garde design and holistic wellness, with both overlooking the ever-sparkling Atlantic Ocean.

The 121 rooms of Corales Beach are modern, spacious, and light in equal measure; each with a king bed and freestanding tub for those post-beach-day unwinds - and where I based myself for a break on the island most recently.

Admittedly, as someone who grew up between the UK and the island, perhaps I'm biased, but experiencing Tenerife through the lens of a tourist for the first time in itself reminded me why so many people fall in love with it.

Whether it’s a cocktail on the rooftop with panoramic views over the fishing village (and a skypool to match, no less), or a dip in the many plunge pools of the spa nestled between cave walls below ground, it’s easy to see why the Royal Hideaway properties have become among the Canary Islands’ most bucket-list stays.

Since opening in 2018, Royal Hideaway has also earned its spot as the destination in Spain boasting the most Michelin-starred restaurants. El Rincón de Juan Carlos boasts two gongs, and Il Bocconcino and San Hô hold one each, respectively. It also has a number of other dining options that prove equally as popular with every type of traveller.

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With every restaurant being so different from another, I made it my mission to visit as many as I could with the time I had, naturally.

Il Bocconcino, headed up by Niki Pavonelli, is rewriting traditional Italian feasting, and also has a Repsol Sun (Spain’s equivalent of a Michelin Guide nod), as well as a ranking in the ‘best Italian restaurants to dine at outside of Italy’ list, to boot.

Nestled at the other side of the resort’s purpose-built volcanic cave, emulating its history, the restaurant’s terrace is the perfect spot to catch the waves of the Atlantic and the sun setting over neighbouring island La Gomera, creating a relaxing, all-purpose setting - whether a romantic date night, or a catch-up with friends.

Atmospherically, Il Bocconcino quickly became my favourite spot, and one I could see myself revisiting. At one side of the restaurant, the open kitchen shows the chefs, including Pavonelli himself, delicately hand-crafting each dish with love. The other, sprawling views in the direction of the ocean and the sunset, with low-fi music setting the ambience.

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We opted for the ‘short’ tasting menu - quickly learning that ‘short’ in Michelin terms is code for 10 courses, each comprising a fresh take on traditional Italian dishes - making it a fail-safe option for anyone who gets fancy-food-anxiety.

Highlight dishes included ‘Carbonara 3.0’ - a liquid carbonara ravioli on pecorino cream, crispy guanciale, pork crackling and cured yolk; royal pelibuey lamb with Jerusalem artichoke purée, and ‘Tribute to Tuna’ - mock ravioli with tuna belly, caviar and bergamot.

What I admired most about these dishes - and Il Bocconcino as a whole - is that it takes the simplicity of the best parts of Italian cuisine, and elevates it into a concept you’d never have imagined.

Don’t be fooled by the portion sizes either; the bite-sized dishes spread over several hours give your body the illusion you’ve inhaled enough to keep you full for a week.

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The nights following would have some serious shoes to fill.

While not yet holding a Michelin accolade (they’re working on it, they inform me), the next night, we’d head to another restaurant on site - Starfish.

I was still keen to secure a table, nonetheless, as it’s already making waves for its sustainability achievements. While penned as an Atlantic Grill, the concept is that ingredients are sourced as locally as possible (the ocean is on their doorstep after all), and the menu celebrates local farmers and fishermen to curate what they call a ‘0km menu’.

During our visit, we enjoyed a selection of freshly-caught fish dishes, paired with wine from the in-house sommelier, who saw no new fish as a challenge for the perfect bottle match.

Starfish has a far more family-friendly atmosphere than the Michelin haunts, but you can’t put a price on the view of the open kitchen in one direction; glowing sunset in the other.

If this is where the bar was set, my third and final visit of the trip would have to be unforgettable.

One thing about Michelin dining is that it’s never just about the food; the smaller details, from atmosphere, to service, all form part of the experience - and our third eatery, San Hô, doesn’t serve tables larger than six, to maintain that excellence.

While I’d gladly highlight both of the aforementioned restaurants to any foodie seeking recommendations in Tenerife - for me, our final dinner, nestled under its Japanese-inspired cabanas, was a truly special experience.

Each table is looked after by a number of waiting staff, all with their respective specialist areas; from wine to food, to the serving and presentation of each dish itself.

Today would be a real test of endurance: 13 courses, each made up of its own sub-dishes.

'Ode To The Sea' Barcelo

We opened with a course affectionately known as ‘Tea Time’, which saw the table transformed into a teddy bear’s picnic-like setting.

With our placemats replaced by teacups and pots, we were presented with cauliflower consommé accompanied by savoury pastries filled with mushrooms. The broth is then transformed into a miso soup, served with a slice of A5 Kagoshima wagyu - decadent and luxurious. However, the theme maintains its playful edge that takes the pretentiousness out of it.

The Japanese influence is apparent throughout the menu, from wafer-thin tuna belly usuzukuri with soy and wasabi to a dessert consisting of miso and apple compote; but one noticeable twist that sets San Hô apart from other East Asian restaurants is its commitment to championing local ingredients. We are 10,500 miles away, after all.

Iberian pork steaks were accompanied by a sauce made with Canarian peppers and demi-glace, while ‘Ode To The Sea’ saw local Canarian fish take centre stage.

'Ode To The Sea'Barcelo

Meanwhile, ‘Forgotten Plants’ celebrates the ingredients that are usually left behind, featuring purslane and glacial ficioid, accompanied by eel cream, braised eel, soy-cured egg yolk, and green mojo - a staple sauce in any Canarian household.

What made this menu my personal favourite was that every dish was distinct, unforgettable, and with its own personality. There was no ‘favourite’ to be had among 13 courses of applause-worthy culinary decisions (although the pigeon breast with corn cream, finished with béarnaise sauce, certainly won me over).

Royal Hideaway’s restaurant offering is rewriting Tenerife’s food scene, offering opulence that can’t be found anywhere else on the island, in an atmosphere so synonymous with Canarian culture. Think relaxation, great times, and an even greater menu.

Rooms at Royal Hideaway Corales Beach start at €221.00 per person, per night. Explore their restaurant offering here.